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Roman replika shoes, calcei & caligae. Examples here are copied mainly from the Saalburg excavations
Roman
from
£105.20
Reproduction Tudor boots & shoes from 1580 onwards
Tudor
from
£157.80
17th Century hardwearing boots and shoes for the reenactor
17th Century
from
£162.20
18th Century replika reproductions of all types of footwear. Civilian & Military, Low Class to High Class
18th Century
from
£166.50
Early 19th Century boots and shoes for the discerning Napoleonic reenactor, from Ancient Regime to Empire
Early 19th C.
from
£166.50
Miniature Shoes made to order
Miniatures
from
£46.00
Contemporary Shoes made to order
Contemporary
from
£315.60
 
Left Hand

Got a pirate on your feet?

Or were your shoes made using this pair of hands?

No cemented soles, no nails, no short cuts made to look like they were made by hand, just the real thing.

Now look at the prices.

Don’t you think you are worth it?

Because my shoes are!

Right Hand

 

Whipping a bound edge to a shoe latchet.

Whipping a bound edge to a shoe latchet.

 

Whipping down a binding on a shoe latchet

Whipping down a binding on a shoe latchet. (2nd stage).

 
Are your uppers closed like this? Are your uppers closed like this?

 

Detail of closed uppers.

Detail of closed uppers.

 
A helping hand. A helping hand.

 

This is the inside of your shoe.

This is the inside of your shoe. The bit you’ll never see. The seam that you’ll never get to admire, or even know that it exists. I’m sewing the Inseam here; the stitch that firmly unites the insole, the welt and the upper. The upper is trimmed and the nails pulled out as I go along.

 

Sewing around the heel area. Always the trickiest part.

Sewing around the heel area. Always the trickiest part.

 

Bracing the thread around thumb and awl haft to pull tight. The other thread is pulled around the left hand using a hand leather.

Bracing the thread around thumb and awl haft to pull tight. The other thread is pulled around the left hand using a hand leather.

 
Shaving a shank piece to fit into a shoe. Shaving a shank piece to fit into a shoe.

 
Is this is what is in your shoes? Only if I made them. Shank pared from oak bark tanned leather plus comfortable cork filler.
That’s why your feet don’t hurt.
Shank pared from oak bark, leather plus comfortable cork filler

 

Soles, midsoles, split lifts and heel lifts all cut from Bakers' best oak bark tanned soling

Soles, midsoles, split lifts & heel lifts all cut from Bakers’ best oak bark tanned soling. Superior to Vegetable tanned soling used by my competitors. It moulds to the feet.

 

Sewing the heels. My shoes are welted throughout.

Sewing the heels. My shoes are welted throughout. (And easily resoled as a result). Here I am using a 4½" heel awl. The remaining heel lifts are pegged on top when the shoe is dry.

 

Soles channelled for sewing. They are held in position with nails that are pulled out when the work is completed.

Soles channelled for sewing. They are held in position with nails that are pulled out when the work is completed.

 
20 years down the road they look like this but they are really comfy And 20 years down the road when they look like this but they’re really comfy I won’t turn up my nose at mending them. (As long as I made them in the first place).

 

A modern riding boot in use by the maker

A ‘modern’ riding boot in use by the maker.

 
Top of a ‘modern’ riding boot showing bound edge & pullup strap. a modern riding boot showing bound edge and pullup strap

 
Detail of a bootclosing flat closed seam on the back of a riding boot. Detail of a ‘bootclosing’ flat closed seam on the back of a riding boot.

 

Price Lists: English Price List  English / Preis Liste (Euro)  German / Prijslijst (Euro)  Dutch

Order Forms (in Acrobat PDF format): English Order Form  English / Bestellung  German / Bestelformulier  Dutch

If you do not have Acrobat reader you can download it here for free


109 Woodmancote, Dursely, Gloucestershire GL11 4AH, 01435 545675